Guest Post by Julie Hines
“America has only three cities: New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland.” – Tennessee Williams
Meet Julie Hines
Julie Hines has always gotten a kick out of that quote. Even with family ties to Ohio, Julie and her husband Nick mostly agree with it. They met in New York; fell in love, married and became parents in San Francisco; and spent three magical years as a family in New Orleans.
When Covid struck, Julie, her husband, and their son left the San Francisco Bay Area and made New Orleans their home. Over the course of 1,000+ days, they experienced second lines, countless parades, festivals, porch concerts, world-class food and drink, stifling heat, and met some of their favorite people on the planet. They even survived a Category 4 hurricane with stories to tell about the storm and the weeks that followed. Last summer, Julie and her family returned to Southern California where she and her husband both grew up, and where most of their families still reside. They love being close to family again, but New Orleans will never be far from their heart.
Julie doesn’t often like to return to the same place, but her favorite place to explore right now is Joshua Tree. Her favorite travel hack is to ALWAYS take the first flight out no matter how painful. ✈️
Q&A GUEST POST with Julie Hines: New Orleans ⚜️
New Orleans, Louisiana is the pulsating heart of the American South, where jazz fills the air, and every corner tells a tale of rich history and vibrant culture. New Orleans, a city steeped in mystique and charm, beckons with its sultry melodies, tantalizing cuisine, and colorful streets alive with the rhythm of life. From the historic French Quarter’s cobblestone streets to the majestic Mississippi River winding through the city, each step unveils a new layer of this captivating destination. Indulge in world-renowned beignets, sway to the soulful sounds of live jazz, and discover the eclectic mix of Creole and Cajun influences that make New Orleans a sensory delight like no other.
Q: Why is visiting New Orleans so great?
A: There is no city in the world like New Orleans. It is a city I have loved deeply for more than thirty years. With world class music (jazz music was born here), food, architecture and an incredibly warm and welcoming community, it’s a fantastic place to visit. They say the city is like a pot of Gumbo, a creative mix of many cultures and histories.
Q: What’s the best time of year to visit New Orleans?
A: As a city that celebrates life to the fullest, there is always something happening in New Orleans.
Weather-wise the best time to visit is during the spring (March-May) and the fall (September-November). Temperatures can range from low 60s to low 80s.
If you want to experience the most vibrant, colorful time of all, come down to New Orleans for Mardi Gras! Carnival season kicks off January 6 and extends until midnight before Ash Wednesday (changes yearly with the church calendar) Your visit will be full of music, parades, extravagant floats, marching bands, costumes and beads and more beads.
Heat and humidity in the summer months can be unbearable, even for locals. The city tends to empty out in July and August. Before we moved to New Orleans, we liked to visit in August because we could get a dinner reservation anywhere we wanted, and many hotels offer deep discounts. Coming from Northern California the heat and humidity were a novelty, and we could stand it for a few days. If this doesn’t scare you, go for it!
And visiting in December can be a treat as well! (Can you tell I love this city so much?!) The city is decked out for the holidays and there are lots of unique traditions to experience, including Caroling in Jackson Square, Celebration in the Oaks and Christmas Eve bonfires on the levees.
Q: What is the best airport to fly in/out of? Any specific airport tips?
A: Louis Armstrong International Airport, or MSY is the primary New Orleans airport. The new world class airport opened in 2019 and hosts a number of top local restaurants, including Emeril’s, Leah’s Kitchen, and Café du Monde of beignet fame. Dirty Coast and Fleurty Girl are great local shops for last minute souvenirs. The best part? It’s not unusual to catch a live jazz performance at baggage claim, welcoming you to the Big Easy.
Q: Once you arrive at the airport, is it best to rent a car or take a taxi or Uber everywhere?
A: Relying on Uber/Lyft is probably the easiest way to get around. The ride from the airport to downtown is about 20 minutes without traffic.
For added fun (and not speed), you can take a ride on the New Orleans streetcar. There are four distinct lines, but my favorite is the Saint Charles line. Rumbling down the “neutral ground” or the middle of St. Charles Avenue for more than 150 years, it is the oldest continuing streetcar line in the world. Sit back and take in the majestic oak trees, Loyola and Tulane universities, Audubon Park and antebellum mansions on every block. Fare is $1.25 for each ride, exact change required, or you can grab the Le Pass app.
Q: What’s the best area to stay in New Orleans? Any specific hotel recommendations? Or best to rent a place on Airbnb?
A: My absolute favorite hotel in New Orleans right now is the Hotel Saint Vincent (Lower Garden District). Originally a Catholic orphanage, it reopened in 2021 as a luxury hotel. We have done several “staycations” here, and even encouraged my brother and now sister-in-law to have their destination wedding there. It’s a boutique hotel, with a small pool, two bars, two restaurants and a unique gift store. The location makes it easy to get to all other neighborhoods.
Other favorites:
The Chloe (Uptown)
The Columns Hotel (Uptown)
NOPSI Hotel (Central Business District)
Ace Hotel (Central Business District)
The Four Seasons Hotel (Downtown)
Hotel Peter and Paul (Marigny)
Q: What are some must-do activities or places to visit while in New Orleans?
A: If you’re coming to New Orleans, you must catch live music and eat great food! (See live music and restaurant suggestions below.)
Visit City Park – City Park is New Orleans largest public park. Of note, it is larger than Central Park in NYC! Two of my favorite spots are the New Orleans Botanical Garden and the Besthoff Sculpture Garden.
Walk the loop in Audubon Park – A favorite spot to get away from the bustle of the city. The paved 2-mile loop is an oasis for walkers, joggers, and cyclists and a great place to picnic or simply enjoy a beautiful day.
Stroll Magazine Street in the Uptown neighborhood. Here you will find a mix of vintage shops, home goods, clothing, bakeries, bars, and casual and fine-dining restaurants. Merchant House and Century Girl are unique spots to check out. Start at French Truck for a coffee!
Meyer’s The Hatter – Since 1894, this 100+ year old hat shop off Canal Street is living history. We often take people there to buy a souvenir hat. Walking distance is The Sazerac House. This corner building provides an interactive history and tasting of the classic New Orleans cocktail, the Sazerac.
Visit Dr. Bob’s funky art studio and take home a treasure. He’s a real New Orleans character. Over the years we have acquired some of his work. I’m glad we have it as a reminder to “Be Nice or Leave” and to stay funky!
Plan a day or night on Frenchmen Street, a three-block section just outside the French Quarter, known for live music. Pop in and out of venues as you chose, some only requiring a 2-drink entry fee. My favorites are D.B.A., The Spotted Cat, Apple Barrel and Bamboulas. Snug Harbor is a restaurant and ticketed venue, and hosts world-class acts. In addition to live music you can also find late-night eateries, record shops, tattoo parlors and a fantastic bookstore. At night you can catch the Frenchmen Art Bazaar featuring local artists selling art, clothing, jewelry and more.
Q: What are the top museums to visit while in New Orleans?
A: Top museums to visit include:
National WWII Museum (Central Business District) – A national treasure. You can easily spend all day here, (or many days like my parents did) but if you are tight on time, I suggest watching Beyond All Boundaries, a 4D movie experience shown exclusively at the WWII museum and narrated by Tom Hanks.
Backstreet Cultural Museum (Treme) – Tucked into the heart of the Treme neighborhood, the museum is a collection of New Orleans’ African American community-based masking and processional traditions, including Mardi Gras Indians, jazz funerals and social aid and pleasure clubs.
NOMA (City Park) – The New Orleans Museum of Art is the city’s fine arts institution.
The Historic New Orleans Collection (French Quarter) – A museum, research center and publisher dedicated to the study and preservation of the history and culture of New Orleans and the Gulf Coast. The gift shop is one of the best places to go for authentic souvenirs and art.
New Orleans Jazz Museum (French Quarter) – This special place celebrates jazz in the city where it was born. Housed in the former U.S. Mint Building.
Q: How family-friendly is New Orleans? What are some top activities to do with kids?
A: I think it surprises people when I tell them New Orleans is a great place for kids. We moved to New Orleans when our son was four years old, and we made sure to seek out and soak up all of the kid’s activities. It’s a magical place to grow up in or experience as a young visitor.
For kids, you’ve got the following:
Louisiana Children’s Museum (City Park) – Indoor and outdoor interactive exhibits, best for kids under the age of 10
Storyland (City Park) – Outdoor, fairytale playground
Carousel Gardens (City Park) – A small 150+ year old amusement park has 18 rides including a ferris wheel, carousel, bumper cars, roller coasters and more.
City Putt (City Park) – Complex features two 18-hole courses with Louisiana and New Orleans themes
Mardi Gras World (Central Business District, on the Mississippi River) – Offers a behind the scenes look at Mardi Gras and the famous parade floats. You’ll walk around the warehouse and learn about the year-long float building process.
Audubon Aquarium (Downtown, on the Mississippi River) – Recently renovated, stellar aquarium and insectarium with views of the river
Audubon Zoo (Uptown) – Located in Audubon Park
Q: There are many great tours available in New Orleans. Do you have any specific recommendations?
A: Yes!
Buzz Nola e-bike tour – The tour is between 2-3 hours and gives a great perspective on the city. You’ll ride along the Mississippi River, City Park, French Quarter, Esplanade, and more. You’ll also stop in one of the famous Nola cemeteries.
I’m a big fan of walking tours, so much so I studied and later passed the test to be a city-permitted tour guide myself. Two Chicks Walking Tours and Lucky Bean Tours are my favorite companies, with both offering tours of the Garden District, French Quarter and more.
Q: New Orleans is known for its music scene. What are the top venues to see live music?
A: Top places to experience live music include:
Preservation Hall – A MUST!! Preservation Hall is “a historic music venue in the French Quarter working to protect, preserve and perpetuate the spirit of traditional New Orleans jazz music.” Tip: Buy front row seats – it’s worth the ten extra dollars! No food, drink or photography allowed in the Hall. If you have time before or after the show, grab a cocktail next door at Pat O’Brien’s.
Tipitina’s – World famous music venue, showcases a lot of local and national acts. We were lucky to go often, since it was just down the road from where we lived.
Bacchanal – Known as Nola’s backyard party, this bar/restaurant/music venue/ is one of my favorite spots in town. You’ll walk through the wine shop, grab your favorite bottle and head to the backyard to listen to local bands. Best food you’ll ever have on paper plates. Note, no kids allowed.
Q: New Orleans is also known for their festivals and parades. Which ones are not to be missed?
A: Parades and festivals not to be missed include:
Jazzfest (April/May) and Mardi Gras (Jan/Feb/March) are the most famous ones, by far. But parades and festivals are a staple of life in New Orleans. You’ve got the St. Patrick’s Day parade (March), French Quarter Fest (April), Easter parades (March/April), Krewe of Boo (Halloween) and so many more. If lucky, you may stumble upon a traditional New Orleans Second Line parade.
Q: Any off-the-beaten path areas to explore or nearby day-trips you recommend?
ALLIGATOR TOURS: Airboat Adventures – Over the years we went on a handful of alligator tours and Airboat Adventures is our favorite. Alligators come right up to the boat for snacks given by the captain. The company has several pick up spots at downtown hotels, if you prefer not to drive or Uber. (It’s about a 30 minute drive outside of the city.) All in, it’s a half day commitment. If you book, do the smaller, high speed pontoon boats.
PLANTATION TOURS: Before the Civil War, New Orleans was home to the largest slave market in the country. Plantations lined their way up the Mississippi River growing sugar cane and cotton, enslaving thousands of people. It’s a dark, heartbreaking part of American history, and important to bear witness. During our time in New Orleans, I visited three plantations. The Whitney Plantation is one of the only historic sites to focus solely on the slave experience and I feel the most important to see. Laura Plantation and Oak Alley are tourist plantations just minutes away. Drive time from New Orleans to Edard, LA is about one hour. Cajun Encounters provide tickets in advance and transportation.
LOUISIANA WETLANDS: Part of the National Park Service, a visit to the Jean Lafitte Barataria Preserve offers a chance to see acres of Louisiana’s wild wetlands. As you stroll the trails look for alligators, snakes and turtles swimming through waterways or sunning themselves on the banks of the bayou.
FOR THE HISTORY BUFF: Fifteen minutes outside of the city, you can visit the Chalmette Battlefield, site of the U.S.’s greatest land victory in the War of 1812. The Battle of New Orleans was the last armed engagement between the U.S. and Britain. It elevated Major General Andrew Jackson to national fame.
Q: Let’s talk food! What are the best eats in New Orleans? Must-visit restaurants? Must-eat dishes?
A: Mosquito Supper Club is my number one recommendation for visitors to New Orleans. You must book a reservation, usually a month or more in advance.
Here are my top recommendations by neighborhood:
Uptown/Garden District:
Clancy’s – A CLASSIC New Orleans neighborhood spot. Will need reservations!
Brigtsen’s – SAME as above. Be sure to order the pecan pie!
Commander’s Palace – Legendary New Orleans restaurant, try the Jazz brunch
Camellia Grill – open 7 days a week, casual, no reservations
Coquette – New American fare, served under chandeliers
Dakar Nola – Twice-nominated James Beard restaurant serving Senegalese food
Le Petite Grocery – Classic New Orleans (Ned’s former school is across the street!)
Saba – Not traditional Nola cuisine, but super special! It’s middle eastern and the pita is to die for. We lived down the street so this was a favorite spot of ours.
Mr. Mao’s – Super spicy, Asian/Creole influence — another one of our faves!
French Quarter:
Doris Metropolitan – If you eat meat, this is the spot. Gorgeous restaurant with top notch service. Walking distance from Preservation Hall. A perfect night would be a show at Press Hall, followed by dinner at Doris or Sylvain.
Sylvain – Great food, cool vibe. My brother had his wedding rehearsal dinner here.
Galatoire’s – Old school NOLA spot. Book for Friday lunch if you can. You’ll roll out of the restaurant after dark.
Arnaud’s – Another old school Nola spot. Order the Baked Alaska for dessert.
Cane & Table – Caribbean food, great cocktails, back patio, all served with a cool vibe
Will & The Way – A local’s in the know spot, serving cocktails and snacks.
Best Spots for Brunch:
Willa Jean (Central Business District) – Our favorite breakfast/brunch spot. Modern decor, with a play on classic Nola dishes. Best biscuit I’ve had in my life. Period.
Molly’s Rise and Shine (Irish Channel) – Same owners as Turkey and the Wolf, it’s a childhood throwback, fun vibe, really good food, casual walk-up order, indoor/outdoor seating.
Atchafalaya (Garden District) – On the fancier side, regularly hosts live music and a bloody mary bar on weekends.
Bywater Bakery – Laid-back neighborhood bakery and cafe, with live music often positioned at the entryway. If you are in town for Mardi Gras season, this is the place to get your king cakes. Try the chantilly flavor. I wait all year for it!
Best Spots for Lunch:
Elizabeth’s (Bywater) – Great for a lively brunch or lunch. Highly recommend this spot for small groups.
Turkey and the Wolf (Irish Channel) – Casual sandwich and burger joint, with a huge national following. We would often see folks with their suitcases, hitting the spot right after they landed, or on their way out of town. Owner has won all kinds of awards, including best new restaurant by Food and Wine.
Barracuda – (Uptown) Might be a head scratcher for tacos in New Orleans, but it’s honestly the best tacos I’ve ever tasted, anywhere. (And I grew up in San Diego!) Plus, our friends own it and they are great people.
Frankie & Johnny’s (Uptown) – Indoor/outdoor seating. Classic nola menu, po-boys, red beans and rice, jambalaya, etc.
Best Spots for a Sweet Treat:
Hansen’s Sno-Bilz (Uptown) – “Air conditioning for your tummy!” This 85-year old shop is legendary in New Orleans. Lucky for us, we lived down the street. We quickly learned a snowball is NOT the same as a snowcone. The snowball has ice so soft it’s like cotton candy. Hansen’s also makes all of its syrup from scratch.
Cafe Du Monde (French Quarter and City Park) You may have heard of New Orleans famous beignets. The most famous place is Cafe du Monde in the French Quarter. A little known secret is that there is a new location in City Park. You won’t have to wait in line, and you’ll get to enjoy the fresh treat among the majestic oaks. Their frozen cafe au lait is delicious too.
Creole Creamery (Uptown) – Long-standing ice cream spot in the heart of the Garden District. Artisan ice creams and sorbets made fresh daily.
Q: What are some must-visit bars in New Orleans?
A: By neighborhood:
Uptown/Garden District
Snake and Jake’s (way Uptown!)
French Quarter
Lafitte’s Blacksmith– Try the famous purple drink!
Fritzel’s – Live jazz in an intimate space
Fives – New spot on Jackson Square
Napoleon House – Famous for their Pimm’s cup cocktail
Pat O’Brien’s – Famous for the Hurricane cocktail. Cool outdoor patio, and inside they have dueling piano performances
Molly’s and Erin Rose – Two local dive bars, off Bourbon Street so a cooler vibe
Marigny/Bywater
Q: Any other must-do or must-know tips for visiting New Orleans? Anything additional you’d like to share?
A: When you arrive, tune into WWOZ, the New Orleans local radio station. Hearing jazz, blues, gospel, brass band, Cajun, bluegrass, Caribbean music and beyond will get you in the Nola mood immediately.
There is a magic in New Orleans if you let yourself feel it. Go with the flow, be open to new people and new experiences. See where the city takes you. ⚜️
