Guest Post by Dana Smith
Based in Berkeley, CA, Dana Smith, founder of Dadascope and fellow travel and food enthusiast, shares her recommendations for visiting the beautiful island of Mallorca, Spain.
Q&A GUEST POST with Dana Smith: Mallorca
Q: Why is Mallorca such a great travel destination?
A: Last summer, my husband had the opportunity to collaborate with a friend on a film in Norway, so of course, I decided to tag along, feeling lucky that my work allows me to lead a digital nomad life fairly effortlessly. After a week in Oslo, the crew traveled to a remote area in Norway to film. Instead of tagging along, I decided to take the opportunity to travel alone — for the first time ever.
But where to go? I craved the crystal-clear Mediterranean coastline that Instagram was serving daily. But as a solo traveler with only five or six days to make the most of, I established a few strict parameters to maximize time and minimize stress. In addition to limiting myself to direct, under-four-hour flights from Oslo, I wanted to avoid anything that resembled “Planes, Trains, and Automobiles: Mediterranean Edition,” including flying through chaotic European hubs like Rome, Naples or Athens. Oh, and I didn’t want to rent a car, so public transportation and walkability were essential. Shouldn’t be too hard to find, right?
Amazingly, it wasn’t. Mallorca was already on my shortlist after reading about the opening of Hotel Corazon in the New York Times. Once I realized that it checked all the logistical boxes and seemed to embody the boho-chic/high-low vibe that is my sweetspot, I started to curate an experience that centered around a cluster of historic towns, rugged beaches and hiking routes in the northwest region of the island.
Link to the destinations Dana visited in Mallorca here.
Q: How many days should one plan to stay in Mallorca?
A: I really like to settle into an area and create a home base, so I would recommend at least five days in one region or a series of five-day stays in various areas throughout the island. While I did take a day trip to the other side of the island, if I had had more time (and a car ;), I would have enjoyed splitting up a longer trip among a few of the island’s less-touristed areas.
Q: When is the best time of year to visit Mallorca?
A: I was there in mid-July, which, honestly, wasn’t ideal. The heat, at times, was oppressive, so I was beyond grateful for the air conditioning in my apartment. But even the air conditioning wouldn’t have been enough without the metal blackout shutters that I sealed tight during the day. With fewer crowds and lower temperatures, a number of locals mentioned May/June or September/October are the best months to visit.
Q: What should you not forget to pack when visiting Mallorca?
A: Oh, did I mention that I bought one of those budget tickets that doesn’t allow a full-size carry-on? With only a daypack, I needed to be strategic. My laptop and notebook were non-negotiable, which left room for a book, a couple of bathing suits, a lightweight dress that I could dress up or down, shorts, tees and trailrunners for longer hikes, Tevas for rocky shores and a pair of flat strappy sandals. I had forgotten to pack a hat, which worked out for the best: choosing a hat from one of the local hat sellers that lined the streets of Soller was a perfect way to start off the trip.
Q: What is the best airport to fly in/out of? Any specific airport tips?
A: Palma de Mallorca Airport is the only option. It’s easy to take the public bus to the main transportation hub in Palma, where you can catch regional buses or hop on a historic wooden train from 1912 (Tren de Soller) through the Tramuntana Mountains to the town of Soller. After landing, I made my way to the historic Palma Station to board the historic train to Soller. The heat was oppressive, so I decided to find a shady table at the small cafe at the train station. After a glass of frigid rose and a couple of empanadas, I was fueled up for my rail journey over the mountains and through orange and olive groves.
Q: Where is the best area/city/town in Mallorca to stay? Any specific hotel recommendations? Or best to rent a place on a site like Airbnb?
A: Most people associate Mallorca with thumping electronic beats and all-day parties, and you can certainly find that in the south of the island, which teams with British and German tourists, according to my sources. Historic Old Palma has recently received a lot of attention for its gothic architecture and charming streets and restaurants. I won’t miss it on my next trip to Mallorca, but this time, I focused my attention on Soller, a historic town situated around a cathedral and main square in the Tramuntana Mountains, because of its innate charms as well as its proximity to some of the island’s best beaches (Cala de Deia) and artist enclaves (Deia and Valdemossa).
My home base was a spacious one-bedroom apartment within Loft 1882, a gracefully appointed guest house that provides simple luxuries, like local oranges for juicing every morning, a communal kitchen, and a gas grill for use in the charming back courtyard. With vaulted ceilings, french doors that opened onto a second-story veranda, a full kitchen and a spacious dining/living area, my apartment was the perfect place to enjoy simple meals prepared from local produce, cheeses and salumi. The proprietor, Spenser, was also a font of local recommendations and friendly conversation.
Soller’s winding medieval streets are lined with small boutiques and inviting cafes that buzz every day of the week but reach a fever pitch on market day, when stalls piled high with local olives, fresh meat, fish and cheeses, clothing, jewelry and locally made soaps stretch through the town.
A hike up the hill behind town leads to two charming villages — Biniaraix and Fortulutx — both with shaded squares perfect for recharging with an ice-cold beer — maybe the best of my life after the sweaty, steep climb to reach it — or an espresso.
A short tram or bus ride away, Port Soller’s seaside restaurants and family-friendly crescent-shaped beach is the ideal place to watch the sun melt behind the rocky shore with a locally sourced gin and tonic in hand.
Q: Is Mallorca kid-friendly?
A: It’s definitely someplace I would have taken my kids, who are now in college, when they were little, especially if you get an Airbnb with a pool. I can’t wait to return with them!
Q: Where can you find the best beaches in Mallorca?
A: This is the hardest question because there are so many! I was slightly limited by my reliance on public transportation, so I only scratched the surface when it came to beaches. One day I hiked through ancient olive groves to Cala de Deia, a rocky cove with crystalline turquoise waters flanked by rustic fish restaurants perched on the rock outcroppings. Just beware of the jellyfish when the tide comes in! I also took a catamaran ride (with about a hundred other tourists) to explore coves and beaches on the other side of the island. With a BBQ on board, an open bar and some new friends, what could have ended up as a floating tourist trap turned into a highlight of the trip!
Q: Tell me about the locals of Mallorca. What do they enjoy doing?
A: Everyone I met in Mallorca was warm and friendly, especially the proprietor of my hotel, who was completely on my wavelength, offering spot-on recommendations and tips throughout my stay — along with freshly squeezed orange juice every morning. Another local cafe owner shared an exceptionally hot tip: I could purchase a daypass and use the exquisitely refreshing mineral pool at an agritourism boutique hotel in Valdemossa. Perfect for a particularly steamy day!
Q: What are some must-do activities & sites you shouldn’t miss while in Mallorca?
A:
Any kind of boat excursion that gives you access to the amazing coves and turquoise waters
Market day in Soller
Sunset at Port Soller, then strolling with homemade ice cream from one of the many local shops
Getting lost within the historic streets, shops and cafes of Valdemossa
Hiking from Soller to Fortulutx and enjoying a beer in the shaded square at the very top of the hillside town
Driving the winding, cliff-clinging roads from Soller to Deia
Picnicking by the sea with juicy local peaches, fresh bread and cheese
Enjoying the air conditioning and the impressive art collection at Can Prunera, a modern museum in an art nouveau mansion
Talking to locals and finding your own hidden gems!
Q: Where can you find the best shopping in Mallorca? What area can you find unique, artisan goods and clothes?
A: Soller, Deia and Valdemossa all had an impressive array of shops selling everything from local leather goods, on-trend oversized straw hats, caftans and beachwear. The array of inspired stores far exceeded my expectations. Additionally, the Soller market is a feast for the senses!
Q: Did you see any live performances in Mallorca? If so, what do you recommend?
A: I did! Whether I’m traveling with my family, girlfriends, or alone, I like to leave plenty of room for spontaneous and serendipitous discoveries. When I arrive at a destination, I usually make a point of perusing the community bulletin board at the local supermarket or town square, which is how I found myself sitting in the tree and sculpture-filled courtyard of the Museum Casal de Cultura with a glass of complimentary local cava in-hand, listening to the East-meets-West rhythms of Nafas Ensemble, a string quartet that “explores sonic spaces that draw on the influences of roots music, improvisation in almost jazzy terms and sometimes minimalist modernity.” A total highlight!
Q: Let’s talk food! Tell me about the Mallorca food scene. Any favorite restaurants? Favorite food stands? Must-eat dishes?
A: For this trip, I only made one reservation: I enjoyed a decadent meal at the bar of Ca’n Pintxo. Of course, I befriended my neighbors at the bar, a lovely Danish couple who had eaten their way through their vacation and shared their list of restaurant favorites with me. The rest of the time, I let locals’ recommendations, market finds, and serendipity guide me to my next meal.
As soon as I landed at my guest house, I asked the host to point me toward the best market in town, where I stocked up on local tomatoes, peaches, yogurt, granola, cheeses, salumi and bread. That became my breakfast, lunch and dinner for most of my stay! I also stumbled upon some hidden gems, like Bodega Biniarix and Miga de Nube, a lush garden cafe and art gallery with delicious salads and vegetarian options in Soller. In Port Soller, my trusty host recommended Minibar for sunset, gin and tonics and wood-fired pizzas.
Q: Let’s talk drinks! What is the go-to drink in Mallorca? Does Mallorca make their own wine?
A: I enjoyed trying various local wines, gin + tonics made from local gin and botanicals, and some extremely creative cocktails at Ca’n Pintxo.
Q: Any additional recommendations, insights or tips about traveling to Mallorca that you’d like to share?
A: To avoid excessive heat and crowds, try to book something in June or September. Also, Mallorca is a world-class rock climbing and road biking destination!
